Winter pruning is an important task in the management of winter pears. The advantages and disadvantages of pruning will affect the growth and results of pears in the coming year. On January 15, at the request of readers, the reporter interviewed Feng Yuexiu, a professor at the College of Horticulture, Northwest Agriculture and Forestry University, and asked her to tell the fruit farmers about the specific techniques of pruning in the winter.

According to Feng Yuexiu, the main purpose of pruning and shaping in winter is to choose an ideal tree shape with reasonable layout, appropriate angles, and balanced growth, and to make full use of auxiliary branches so as to support the development of the tree while supporting the results and increasing the early yield. Crown expansion.

Evacuation layered

In the year of planting, the height of drying is generally 80 to 100 cm, and it is often found in gale areas down to 60 to 80 cm. If it is planted in spring, it needs to be dried immediately after survival; if it is planted in the fall, it needs to be dried, but the interception height can be slightly higher, so as to avoid the upper buds being air-dried and pumping; until the spring sprouts, it will be short before the preset height. Eight to ten full shoots are required within the plastic belt to ensure that a sufficient number of shoots are produced for the selection of the main branch; varieties with weak branching force, especially Japanese and Korean varieties, need to be carved to promote Germination; For varieties that grow upright, the shoots must be fixed after the new shoots stop growing, making them dry to a 60-70 degree angle with the center.

In the second year: After the young seedlings are dry, they can draw 5~6 robust long shoots. The top strong branch is cut short at 70~80 cm, and the central leadership is trained. For the lower branches, 3 or 4 breeding sites are selected. The stems of good, whorled leaves are reserved as the main branch, and they are cut short at around 50 cm to trigger lateral branches. The buds are required to take the lead to facilitate the formation as soon as possible. For the main branch base angle has not yet reached 60 to 70 degrees, the need for "branching" or pull branches; other branches as far as possible sparsely cut, should be flattened (80) for supporting the use of supporting branches, and long release flower to increase early Yield. The short length of each main branch in practical operation can be flexibly controlled by the growth potential and planting density of branches, but it is generally appropriate to not less than 40 cm.

The third year: Continue to carry out a short cut of the center, with a length of 70 cm. The length of the first main branch extension head is 40-50 cm, and the buds take the lead. Its role is to promote branching, to cultivate the second side branch, and to increase the growth of the branches and leaves to facilitate the early formation of the crown. The annual branches on the stem are no longer short in principle. Pulling branches can be used to delay their growth potential and promote the formation of flower buds. However, budding shoots should be promptly wiped or picked on the shoots that sprout on the back.

The fourth year: In principle, long-range deployment is the main method. For the upper shoots, the two-direction shoot extension is selected to be short at about 40 cm to cultivate the second main branch. For the extension of the main branch of the first layer, the weak can be moderately short, and the strong should be long. For the branches between the main branch of the first floor and the second floor, the flower blossoming can be carried out by a large number of flower buds, and those with fewer flower buds can continue to grow long to promote short branching and flower bud formation.

"3+1" tree

Colonization of the year: evacuation layered management.

In the second year, the center was cut short at 80 centimeters or so and was selectively carved (with an interval of 20 centimeters and scattered in the wrong direction). For the branches that are drawn from the base, in principle no shorter cuts are made. After germination, they can be drawn at 70-80 degrees, but those with weak growth and less than 60 cm in length need to be moderately short to increase their growth potential. Form as soon as possible.

In the third year: Extensions to the center are no longer short. The center does a short cut after the second year of the branch, long release flowers can be promoted, but for strong growth, angle erection to pull the branch to 70 to 80 degrees. Because of the above-mentioned reshaping method, the angle of pulling the branch is large, and it is easy to erupt buddies on the back. Therefore, it is necessary to intensify the wiping of buds, picking the heart, turning the tip, and waiting for the summer trimming work.

Spindle

In the year of planting, the method of setting the stem height and the short cut method for the center stem is basically the same as the evacuation layered form, except that the main branches at various levels are not cut short to cultivate lateral branches, but the pull branches and long shoots are used to directly cultivate the result branches.

In the second year: The center was cut short at 70-80 cm, and the lower branches were drawn at 70-80 degrees (the weak can be “heading” moderately).

In the third year, the center continued to be short, with a length of 80 centimeters or so, and the new branch was pulled.

In the fourth year, the treatment of the center stem needs to be determined by the density of planting and the number of branches that have been cultivated. If the density is small, and the number of branch stems is not up to the requirement, the “heading” must be continued. That is, long-term deployment is performed, and the method of pulling branches is still adopted for the new shoots that are cut after the center has been cut for the third year in order to cultivate the resulting branch axis.

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